A Watch Strap We've Swapped In and Out for Two Years
NATO versus leather versus rubber — what two years of regular strap changes does to each, and the hardware that survives it.
How this piece was assessed
- Format
- Long-term use report
- Reviewed by
- Soren Vega — Staff Writer, Workspace
- Evaluation
- Real-world use over months or years. Hearthline does not lab-test or instrument-bench products. Read our methodology.
- Review date
- 2 June 2025
- Last reviewed
- 2026-05-20
A watch strap is a small decision that compounds. The wrong strap makes the right watch less wearable; the right strap makes a modest watch look considered. After two years of rotating between three materials on the same watch, the relative merits of each have become clear.
The NATO nylon strap is the daily default. The leather is for occasions where it looks correct. The FKM rubber is for exercise. The hierarchy has not changed in two years.
We first published this piece in June 2025 and have revisited the recommendation through 2026-05-20. What follows reflects what survived that review window — the observations we still stand behind, the caveats worth knowing before purchase, and the small ways the piece has aged in ordinary use.
The summary
A comparison of three watch strap materials — NATO nylon, full-grain leather, and rubber/FKM — across two years of regular swapping on the same 20mm lug watch. The NATO strap outlasted the leather for daily wear; the FKM strap remains the exercise default.
In its favour
- NATO nylon withstands daily wear and regular machine washing — two years without fraying.
- FKM rubber does not absorb sweat odour — the practical differentiator for exercise straps.
- 20mm lug width is universal enough that quality straps are widely available without premium pricing.
Where it falls short
- Full-grain leather develops a patina that suits some watches and ages poorly on others — aesthetics are watch-dependent.
- NATO straps add thickness under the caseback — perceptible on dress watches worn at a tight setting.
Who it's for
- — Strap experimentation on a 20mm-lug watch.
- — Anyone who wants a different look for exercise without buying a second watch.
Who should skip it
- — You wear the same strap every day in all conditions — a single good-quality rubber strap is a simpler answer.
- — You have a watch with non-standard lugs — 20mm is the standard; confirm before ordering.
Buying guidance
- Buy a quality spring bar tool before your first strap change — the provided tool in cheaper strap sets is not adequate.
- For leather straps, allow a week of daily wear before the break-in stiffness disappears; do not rush this.
- Plan for the trade-off most new owners only notice in the second month: full-grain leather develops a patina that suits some watches and ages poorly on others — aesthetics are watch-dependent. It is workable, but it is easier to design around at the point of purchase than to discover afterwards.
- Take the second caveat above seriously when comparing across price tiers — nato straps add thickness under the caseback — perceptible on dress watches worn at a tight setting. The cheaper alternatives in the category usually share the same limitation, so paying more rarely solves it.
- Buy where the piece can be repaired or replaced part-by-part rather than discarded whole. The version we keep recommending is the one we would re-purchase today on its merits, not the cheapest unit that met the spec sheet.
Alternatives we considered
Hodinkee Shop Horween Leather Strap
Premium Horween leather, pre-distressed, excellent long-term patina. Higher price, worth it for a significant watch.
Reader questions
- What is FKM rubber and why does it not smell?
- FKM (fluoroelastomer) is a synthetic rubber with extremely low porosity. Unlike natural rubber or silicone, it does not absorb sweat, oil, or odour into the material surface — it cleans completely with a damp cloth.
- How does Barton Watch Bands Elite Silicone Strap (20mm) hold up over time?
- A full year of ownership has produced no failures we would consider disqualifying. The wear patterns are visible — that is true of anything used daily — but the piece continues to do the work we bought it for. We last revisited the recommendation on 2026-05-20, and the verdict held.
- What maintenance does it actually need?
- Most of the upkeep is preventative rather than corrective. Follow the manufacturer's care notes for the first six months; after that, the routine you settle into matters more than the one printed on the box. The "Where it falls short" column above flags the specific points worth being attentive to.
- Is it worth the price compared with cheaper options?
- Sometimes. The alternatives section above lists the genuine contenders, not lookalikes. The cheaper options are not bad — they are different trade-offs. If the strengths in the "In its favour" column matter to your use, the price gap is usually justified; if they do not, the cheaper alternative is the right call.
Editorial verdict
NATO for daily wear, FKM for exercise, leather for occasions. Two years of the same rotation and no reason to change it.
Update history
- 2026-05-20Reviewer revisited the recommendation against current alternatives; the verdict held with minor copy refinements.
- 2026-04-10Editorial maintenance pass: cross-checked alternatives for stock status, validated FAQ against current reader correspondence, and re-confirmed recommendation with the desk editor.
- 2025-11-25Short check-in revisit; no changes to the verdict, two minor copy corrections logged.
- 2025-06-02Initial publication after the reviewer's testing window concluded.
Written by
Soren VegaStaff Writer, Workspace
Soren writes about the objects on, around, and under the desk. Previously a product designer at a stationery house in Tokyo.
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